August 21, 2018

Why drive 3 hours from Copenhagen to see a hole in a side-street of medieval Ribe in western Denmark? Passion or sheer folly, my reasoning is simple: the Northern Emporium project led by Søren Sindbæk from Aarhus University is an exceptional glimpse of early Viking levels the like of which are unlikely to be seen again for a generation.

Excavations began in Ribe in the 1970s. Mogens Bencar...

August 20, 2018

The last time I was in Ribe in western Denmark there was a magnificent hoar frost. The little North Sea port seemed to be lost to the white mists of a Grimm fairy tale. Founded by the Danish king Ongendus in the early 8th century, it attracted the bold missionary Ansgar, who made a cathedral here. Today this huge high medieval building of Westphalian stone and brick dominates the town. Ar...

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